USA Tennessee: Davie Manor House

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Just outside Memphis I went to visit the Davie House Plantation. What a great museum with the most knowledgeable curator Kat. I arrived to find a sign on the door saying walk-in tours Friday to Sunday, Tuesday to Thursday by appointment please call, with a number.  I was so disappointed as I had checked that they were open. So, I called the number to see if I might be able to book a tour for later. Well Kat answered the phone and said give me 1 min to open the door I’m just in the back, and then proceeded to give me a 2-hour private tour. It was fascinating she knew so much and I asked a hundred questions.

The first thing she explained was that the big plantations we see in movies like Django and Gone with the Wind only comprised about 10% of the plantations at that time and belong to the wealthy upper-class. Then there were about 60% of the plantations that were like the Davies House plantation and considered middle class. They did grow cotton and the people owned slave, about 15 to 22 at one time, whereas the large plantations would have up to 100 or hundreds.

It was so interesting to learn how the house built in 1807 is still standing due to the way it was built and the materials used. It stated as a 1 room cabin built by the family and grew into the house there is today. I find it fascinating to see how people lived in the past, and am also super grateful that I live now and not back in those times. For example, when women prepared to give birth they prepared for death as well, because of the high rate of deaths in childbirth.

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One of the many interesting stories Kat told me was that Ellen Davies wrote a lot of books and in one explained how her sharecropper Moses, who she often used as a Butler, was an amicable trustworthy man that she was fond of. However, from interviews with Moses daughter you hear the other side of the story about hose Moses was terrified of Ellen Davies. He did everything in his power to please her to keep on her good side and keep his family employed as share croppers on the property. Basically, sharecropping is like indentured work, so legal slavery without the cruelty. As it was explained to me.

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The property itself is stunning and I got pretty close to some deer.

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USA Tennessee: Road to Memphis

Tuesday, 31 May

I left Savannah this morning after having a small meet and greet with a homeless guy. He was really sweet he stopped outside the hotel when I was packing the bike and told me my bike was really nice. He asked how I could carry so much luggage, that he would struggle to carry even though he’s really strong. He then proceeded to show me how strong his arms were. He said he’s so strong because he’s a vet. He then said and with arms like these can I guess how old he is.

I didn’t want to guess as he looked about 70 but I was guessing by what he was saying that he probably wasn’t. He told me was 57 ”can you believe that”. Well I couldn’t but just said wow that’s impressive.

I’m pretty sure that he was homeless which is just very sad. He wished me a safe journey and all gods blessings and I rode out of Savannah.

I did ballpark about 450 km today about 400 on the interstate and then about the last 50 year off the interstate. The interstates are really great roads; huge, easy, good quality and hardly any traffic. So really easy to cruise along and no one sticks to the speed limit. Plus there are no speed cameras so I just cruise along at 75 to 80 miles/hour (113 to 120 km/h) I never really been a fan of the bigger Harleys style cruiser bikes as that is not my style, but I really do see the appeal on these big motorways. They must be really fun and would get you to places quickly.

Pretty little lake I saw somewhere off the interstate in Alabama

Generally what the roads off the interstate look like

When not riding off the interstate I found a mixture of some sweet towns like Newman and some very squirrelly looking one, very run down. Also a huge variety of houses from run down dumps to lovely looking family hones, to huge mansions. I especially love the South fork style mansion set well back on massive farms.

County courthouse in Newman

I came across this place by just riding along the backroads in Newman. What a find, looks stunning and haunted to me

On Wednesday, 01 June. I carried on spending some time exploring roads off the interstate and also hopping on the interstate to just put some miles behind me. As usual when riding I spend a lot time thinking in my helmet and this trip is no different.

My thoughts on the USA so far: Not political as I don’t live in the US so have no interest in discussing US politics. Although I don’t want to say anything negative but I’ll start with a negative of which there is really only one thing… the food, the portions are ridiculous I know this from every trip I’ve made here but it still slaps me in the face and kind of gets to me as I end up wasting so much food. It’s also not the healthiest food by far. No vegetables and I love my vegetables. I’m not vegetarian but eat a lot of vegetarian food and have radically reduced the amount of meat I eat, but I do love my vegies.  Some of the food is really cheap not just in price but in quality. I went to the waffle House for example, and you know you have to tip 20% here, with tip  it cost me six dollars for waffle and it was awful so I won’t make a mistake again. When I arrived in Savannah I wanted to have a really good meal so I found a great restaurant and had one of the best meals I’ve ever had in this country. Scallops on couscous with broccoli and was the right portion and it was just absolutely fantastically cooked and cost me 36 bucks so with a tip we talking 50 bucks for a meal in America that is exorbitant and it’s yeah well it’s a… Swiss prices so that’s crazy. But I’d say on average for a ‘’good’’ meal I’m paying 15-30 bucks

My healthy roadside lunch. With one of the good yoghurts.

 The other thing that’s really expensive as accommodation when I came to the state before, in 2016, I was paying on average $35-$55 and I think before the most I paid was $75. These are for the hotel just off the interstate for comparison.  Now I’m paying between $100 and $150, my average is $129. It’s just too ludicrous how expensive things are. Gas is a lot more expensive at $4.50 a gallon but still a lot cheaper than Switzerland which I think will work out to about $8 or $9 a gallon. But back to the food that’s again the negative thing is the quality and the sizes and trying to find healthy food. The hotel breakfasts are yeah hmm lots of cereal one of them had oat porridge which was cool that was good. They all have bananas and which is great. Every hotel so far has also served scones which are called biscuits here. So that I like to have coffee and scones and a banana. I had tried the yoghurt once (and I know you can get good yoghurt here as I had some at Matt and Mayas place) But in the hotel it was like strawberry jelly mixed with milk powder…. Hmm maybe that is how they made it yuck. I had a boiled egg in one hotel that the yoke was so pale it was almost white. It was a proper fresh boiled egg I de-shelled myself but completely tasteless. Every hotel also serves the food with paper plates and plastic cutlery. There is plastic everything everywhere, and almost zero recycling. I’m not sure where the environmental movements are I see on the news but they sure are not driving around this country.

There are pockets of places where I have seen a lot of garbage on the interstates, but mostly the countryside is very clean. I often see people walking along the roads cleaning up, and there are notices indicating who sponsors the roads, so I guess they keep them clean. Not sure why that is needed I mean just throw your trash in a bin people.

Right to the other side of what I noticed here. People are friendly, really friendly, and polite. It’s not just the homeless guy who chatted to me but I’ve met soooooo many nice friendly people just in gas stations. It’s cool 😊

There is also soooooo much space here. I just love riding along and seeing these huge wide open spaces, it really does the heart good and puts me in a great mood every day. It’s a beautiful place and green as anything. I have seen some stunning birds and deer. I saw a few racoons at Ants place and many many squirrels everywhere. I just love it.

Riding to Memphis I crossed from Georgia to Alabama and eve a tiny bit of Mississippi before entering Tennessee. I think I’m going to get to see a lot of the US and the North, mid, South , East and West are very very different.

Just outside Memphis in the suburb of Bartlett I did some more house exploring.

 

Had to wait for this lot to take their time to cross the road…and they have wings 🙂
The garden the geese came from, I think they were taking advantage of the fountain.

USA Georgia: Savannah

Leaving fort Myers in the heat I opted to stick to the Interstate at I had about 750kms to Savannah Georgia, which I’d do in 2 days. It was hot but the US interstates are fantastic so little traffic, no one sticks to the speed limit, just easy cruising along and the kms zip by. Being on the interstate I didn’t see much except a lot of bikers on big Harley cruisers and BIG trucks. I did howe er see a couple of dead armadillos 😦 and one very live deer running in a filed.

After about 400kms I stopped for the night in Gainesville.

I did get to thinking how things have changed over the years in my travels. When I was at uni and travel and one summer worked in a game park my folks & boyfriend had to live with snail mail and the odd phone call. Now you think my typing, spelling and grammar are bad…🤣🤣🤣 You ain’t seen my spider crawl handwriting.

My first big trip was my gap year in 1991 when I worked on a ski resort in Vermont and then backpacked around the states and Canada for a year. There was no social media and my parents had to be happy with a weekly, sometimes monthly phone call and a few post cards. Same thing a few years later when I backpacked SE Asia. Then we at least had internet cafes and I could send a few friends and family emails.

Last night I FaceTimed with my hubby. It was awesome and I miss him, but thanks to the net we get to stay in touch. Other than keeping in touch with Joern, all this connectedness can be as much a curse as a blessing.

Yesterday while taking a break I got a text from Joern saying “I saw that, Dunkin Donuts. Big brother is watching” …why did I give him a location link to my phone 🤣🤣

This is my seventh trip to the United States in my entire life and as far as cities or towns go savannah in  Georgia is the best I’ve seen so far. it’s stunning, it’s really interesting and it’s also fun.

Today I took one of those old town Trolley sightseeing trips. The hop on hop off ones. I also did an unbelievable amount of walking. so I think I’ve seen Savannah left, right and centre. I went into a couple of the old historic houses, and an art museum.  It’s absolutely beautiful, Savannah has an incredible history, both good and bad. You need to see the bad because we need to learn from it,  good and bad, and it’s part of history so you can’t pretend it didn’t exist. I’m talking about the whole history of slavery.  It’s an incredibly interesting town and I thoroughly enjoyed seeing these the old houses which are just so so stunning.

I also went to the small military museum. It’s a private collection and very impressive.

And then I found the candy store 🙂

USA Florida: Fort Myers

One of the best parts of this particular trip is that I’m re-connecting with friends and family.

Today I headed over to Fort Myers to stay with my nephew Matt and his wife Maya and get to meet my grand nephew Ethan for the first time. Ethan is 3 and the cutest little kid, also the splitting image of Matt.

I’ve always wanted to go flying with my nephews and today I got the chance. Matt took me flying in his Giles 202, aerobatic plane, it was totally AWESOME. I wish I had a stronger stomach and could have flown for longer and done more aerobatics, but Matt took care of me. We did a bit of sight seeing plus a couple of 360s, a loop and 6 barrel rolls, too friggin fantastic.

Now the funny part. Matt starts of saying “ok ready to go… I’m just going to put this parachute on you. If anything happens open the seatbelt, I’ll blow the canopy and just push out, and pull this cord immediately” Alrightity erm. So I get in and no, not one seatbelt but an over the shoulder and round the waist strap in seatbelt and then a 2nd one across the waist. Then I look in front of me and there is a sign saying ” Passenger warning. The aircraft is amature built and does not comply with the federal safety requirements for standard aircraft…..WTHECK have I agreed too 🤣🤣

But no in all seriousness my nephew is a damn good pilot and I loved every minute. I didn’t think the pictures I took would come out, but some did. I unfortunately didn’t take any video footage of the roll as I was enjoying the experience too much.

Matt lives in an airpark, which was a totally new concept to me, but pretty cool. Basically a small suburb where the residence are all pilots or aircraft mechanics etc. The suburb sits directly alongside an airport. The houses all have hangers and access either direct or near to the runway. I asked Matt how the people without direct access to the runway get their plane there and he explained that the roads are basically all legal taxiways so they just drive their airplanes along the road to the runway. For this reason the stop signs are all low so as not to be any obstruction / danger to the planes.

How’s that for a garage?
The short stop sign on the road / taxiway
The airpark from the air. What a cool concept, my dad would have loved this.

My accommodation which I loved and has a really comfy bed so I slept very well.

I wish I could have stayed with Matt and Maya for longer, however I need to head up north and ensure I get to Memphis to see my brother. I’m going via Savannah as I’ve always wanted to go there and will take a 2 day break there. I started the trip thinking I’d keep off the major toll roads as the secondary roads are often more interesting. However it soon became apparent that in this huge country this would not work as it’s just slow going. I must say though the American interstates are awesome. There is no traffic and often up to 5 lanes. so I’m just cruising along on Vince and enjoying the ride. It is super hot though, another reason to stick to the interstate as it’s not so bad when you keep moving at 115/125km/hr (75miles) And as Paul pointed out I dress for the slide not the ride (meaning I wear a bikers jacket and full face helmet. I just cannot bring myself to do the American short sleeves and open face helmet…freaks me out)

USA Florida: Kennedy Space Centre

One of my first touristy stops. DAMN these rocks are big. What a fascinating day. I learned so much today, including the fact that NASA plans of going back to the moon in 2024 on the Artemis 2 mission.

The best thing for me was the Saturn v rocket, the size has to be seen to be believed. I also really enjoyed seeing the shuttle Atlantis. The photos also don’t do justice to the size of the the Vehicle Assembly Building (VAB)

Saturn V
Atlantis
Vehicle Assembly Building (VAB)

USA Florida: Orlando and Lake Mary

I’ve been in two minds about blogging during this trip. It can be very time consuming and I have terrible grammar and can’t spell, so it can be a bit stressful for me. However it is something I do more for myself, for my memories, so have decided that I will blog again this time. They may not be regular, just once or twice a week, and will possibly consist of more photographs than text.

I started my trip flying into Orlando and then visiting my friends Paul and his wife Kim in Lake Mary. I’ve known Paul for about 25 years, since I lived in London, and haven’t seen him since 2016. So it was truly fantastic to spend time with them and I just wish it could have been longer.

I had Vince the v-strom delivered to Pauls place so he was ready and waiting on my arrival.

While in Lake Mary I got to spend a bit of time getting some dog cuddles from Bella and Coco. These two little girls are so sweet and made me miss my little Ozzie man.

Bella, who is 12 going on 2
Coco, who is 13 going on 20, but the sweeting snuffly little lady
Paul is a wise wise man 🙂

The End: 14th March 2016. 40200kms

I cannot believe the trip is over it seems to have gone so fast and I still cannot really process all my experiences. The most important thing I did was get married on the 5th November 2015. I travelled 40200km (25000 miles) visited 22 countries and 7 states in America, rode my bike to 4810m at Paso de Jama in Chile, crossed the Amazon, patted a whale and overall just had a ball. I am really sad it is over as I just want to continue riding, but I miss my husband Joern terribly and I think it is time to go home… however I’ll be BACK

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USA: Arkansas & Tennessee

USA: Arkansas & Tennessee

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spelt Arkansas but pronounced Arkansaaawww

Clarksville Arkansas (13th to 14th March)

While I was in Mustang with Marc and Janine I sat down with Marc and planned a nice scenic route that would take me off the interstate (since I am making such good time)  to a town in the mountains called Eureka Springs which I found out is known as little Switzerland. However on my way along the I-40 I rode through two small showers, nothing special but at the turnoff I would have taken to go up to Eureka all I could see were black clouds, so I changed my mind and rode onto Clarksville. Not 15 minutes after I arrived the sky opened and it poured, so I was happy with my decision, but sad that I missed seeing Eureka.

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Something you don’t see on the menu every day … unless you live in Arkansas

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The following day I took a route off the i-40 up to a tiny town called Sand Gap. I just wanted to see the area and it was worth the little trip. The sun was out and area is so nice, I can imagine how beautiful it must be in summer, all green and lush. The road was great, long sweeping twisties, just the kind I like, and hardly any traffic, what a great last day ridding.  After this detour I just headed straight to Memphis as fast as I could as I was so keen to see my nephew.

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Memphis Tennessee (14th to 17th March)

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My nephew, Justin, moved to the states (to Oshkosh Wisconsin) 4 years ago but I have not seen him for 6 years and I could not wait to catch up on all his news. He is now living in Memphis and opening his own company. He is an aircraft mechanic and only 24 but he is a really hard, conscientious and professional worker, plus very intelligent and ambitious, so of all the people I know I am convinced that he will be successful and I am very proud of him.

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My nephew Justin doing what Justin does .. fix planes

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another one of the nice place in the hanger … I liked this one … I don’t even know what it is but I like it 🙂

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Just been bathed and ready to settle into new digs

While in Memphis I also had the opportunity to see Brain, who I rode the Amazon with, and his lovely wife Bonita. They invited Justin and me to a good old South African Braai (BBQ), YUMMMMMY What a lovely couple, we had a really great evening. It was so nice to catch up with Brain again and meet Bonita who is a very talented artist, we just didn’t want to leave.

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OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA Bonita, Brain and Me

Other than seeing friends, visiting with Justin and sorting my bike, out which will stay in Memphis, I didn’t get to see much as I just had too much to organise. However I liked what I did see and am very sure I will be back to see more of the USA as this was really just a drop in the ocean on my way to Tennessee from Central America.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA With Justin my nephew

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA One very very sad lady leaving her beloved bike 😦

 

USA: Arizona, New Mexico, Texas & Oklahoma

Scottsdale & Holbrook Arizona (7th to 10th March)

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It felt a little surreal to be back in the USA, but I certainly enjoyed the feeling, especially spending time with Leigh and Cathy Abel, the most awesome couple in the world. I rode through the Amazon with them and they have ridden all over the world together so they have a plethora of great travel stories to tell. I honestly aspire to be like them. I spent 2 nights with Leigh and Cathy in Scottsdale and got a small insight into life in Arizona. I was surprised at how beautiful the place is. I didn’t think cacti could be so lovely and interesting.

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After leaving Scottsdale I headed out to Holbrook through the Tonto national forest. I had such a good day, the ride was quick, easy and the scenery was fantastic I kept stopping to take photos. It was quite cold in the mountains with little bits of snow still on the ground, however not unbearably cold so I didn’t even stop to put another layer on.

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In Holbrook I stopped in my first America motel, it was nothing like the Bates model from psycho or any other dingy motel we so often see in the movies. It was cheap, simple but very clean and the water was hot, which is very important to me after a chilly ride.

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Albuquerque New Mexico, Amarillo Texas & Mustang Oklahoma (10th to 13th March) 

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I like the states but it is different to Latin America so I’m having a little culture shock. After 8 months it’s a breath of fresh air to hear / speak English instead of Spanish, the food the scenery everything is different. Like Latin America though, American people are super friendly. However I don’t think I’d like to live here, visit yes and I really do want to do a big bike trip here but I just like Europe especially Switzerland more than the USA. The main thing I love about the states are the open spaces, it really is like a breath of fresh air. I am not sure where this comes from but when I see open spaces I am just happy. What I don’t like are the politics for one & the waste, I mean all the portions are huge not just in the restaurants but cold drink, coffee, M&Ms etc all twice the size as back home. I find it excessive and unnecessary. I also don’t like how you are assaulted by advertising especially for food. Massive bill boards everywhere adverting food, when you fill up with gas as you fill up you hear a voice coming from the pump adverting stuff that is now 50% off in the shop (this has just happened in a few gas stations but it certainly caught me by surprise). Just constant adverting and it is mostly, food, medicine and insurance. Maybe it’s because I am not used to it but I genuinely found it disturbing this constant bombardment of advertising and over indulgence of food.

However the scenery is AWESOME 🙂

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I had my first motel experience in Holbrook and the 2nd in Albuquerque. I thought it would be very much like the motels in the movies and they do look like that from the outside, however the rooms are very nice and they are affordable. 40 usd which I do think is  a lot but is the cheapest  option, in an ok motel. However the people are a bit hmmmm. The one in Holbrook had this guy 2 doors down screaming at his 2 cute little boys. When I arrived the boys were playing outside with little cars and they were so cute and friendly. Then in the morning all I could hear was  ”what the F are you crying about now, you f&^%?ing idiot” etc it was horrible. More horrible than the homeless dogs I saw in on my trip

Then in Albuquerque a couple a few doors down had  a massive fight, the door was open and he was standing  in it smoking and, let’s just say, he was less than desirable looking. This happened as I was walking past to go to my room. I showered changed etc and on my way out to eat it was still going on. The only thing I heard was the woman say ”fine I’ll do my thing and you do yours or why don’t you just f off for good” She was dressed in leopard print T-shirt and a tiny mini, and I think was about 60 years old, and not nice enough to pull it off. On my way back from dinner there were 2 police cars at the motel outside their room. Not sure what happened but at least all was quiet. It was all quite interesting, a different view on another part of society, interesting but not very nice.

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On my way to Amarillo I went off the I-40 interstate and rode on parts of route 66. I stopped in the small town of Tucumcari where the route 66 monument is. This town is great it’s like something out of the 60’s and I felt like I had been transported back in time. It is great that they have left so much of it in the old style and renovated a few buildings. It is however sad that so much of it is derelict as more and more people move to the big cities these little towns get smaller and smaller and eventually just become ghost towns.

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After Amarillo on my way to Mustang Oklahoma I again went off the Interstate and stopped at another route 66 town, Shamrock, I really like these little places. I stopped for something to eat and ended up chatting to a lady there about the weather, biking etc and she restored my faith in humanity again after the 2 sad incidence at the motels.

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In Mustang I had the pleasure of staying with Marc Bradly and his wife Janine, their two cats and two gorgeous America bulldogs (Willow and Bolder, I thought they were pit bulls at first but Marc explained that they are America bull dogs, a breed I had never heard of and they are gorgeous) I made friends with Marc through the KLR FB group and it was great to meet someone from the group in person. Marc and Janine’s pets are rescue pets which I just love and Bolder is completely deaf. He knows a little sign language and is the friendliest most loving dog. I just fell in love with him. Marc also raises bees and it was interesting to see his hive and learn a bit about them. Marc and Janine own an organic garden supply store. It seems a lot of Americas are looking into a healthier lifestyles and that was interesting to me. As a foreigner you only know about America from what you see on TV, until you go there and meet the people. I’ve been to the states about 5 times over the last 30 years and it is interesting to hear about this organic food movement and see the changes over the years.

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Janine is a fantastic cook, so I had a great home cooked meal (organic), good coffee, good conversation and great company. I could not have asked for a better evening. Also slept like a log and with a pregnant pussy cat at my feet (She is a stray who adopted Marc and Janine who found out she was pregnant. I think she wanted a safe home to have her kittens in).

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Mexico: The Bahia – Bahía de los Ángeles, San Filepe & Mexicali ( 3rd to 7th March)

After seeing/touching whales no other experience in Bahia could be as good, however I still enjoyed the riding 🙂

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OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA Unusual cacti in the Bahia

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I planned on spending 2 days in San Filepe in order to not cross the border over a weekend and to spend my last 2 days by the seaside. Once again the ride was just good, downright good. Bahia de Los Angeles is a tiny town with not much there except a few RVs driven south by the Americans and Canadians who come to the Bahia to escape the winter cold. I told them they are like migrating birds and there are a lot of them, and all very friendly indeed.

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OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA a rather unusual house

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After Bahia de Los Angeles I hit a 100km dirt road, the last bit of dirt on my long Latin American trip so I made the most of it. I stopped in at Cocos Corner and met the famous Coco which was quite an experience, as well as 2 other American bikers enjoying the Bahia. Unfortunately the bad dirt road rattled something loose in my speedometer/odometer and now it is not working. However I have an appointment with a mechanic in Scottsdale as I need a new back tire so he’ll take a look at it. I tried to see what was wrong but everything looks good no loose connections, I do hope he can sort it out.

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Couple of fun dirt roads

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San Filepe is another touristy town and nice but not awesome, however what was great was the campground, it was very clean and well run and had double story palapas. This was a fun experience so I put my tent up, having to find ingenious ways to put a tent up with no tent pegs due to the floor being concrete.  I really do like my little tent it is like my secure bat cave.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA A couple of local buskers in San Filepe

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Dudly the most gorgeous dog in camp, I just fell in love with him.

The camp had more friendly America bikers who gave me some good advice on routes through the states and a plethora of extremely friendly RV campers. I just had a really nice, fun, good time in San Filepe. It was truly the epilogue I wanted to my Latin American experience.

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OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA A gorgeous sunrise in San Filepe

My final riding day in the Bahia was from San Filepe to Mexicali and easy 200kms on pristine road with more good scenery. I felt on top of the world and also strangely looking forward to crossing the border to the states even though this means the beginning of the end of my trip. The border crossing was extremely simple, quick, easy and the officials all very nice, friendly and helpful. I am visiting friends and family in the states and just cannot wait to catch up with them.

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Final pictures of the Bahia

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Enjoying the last bit of dirt on this trip