Werdenberg, St Gallen
Don’t worry, there aren’t actually any snakes living here — although the name Schlangenhaus, or Snake House, might have you thinking otherwise. This wonderfully quirky old building is one of Werdenberg’s most interesting historical treasures, with roots stretching all the way back to 1261, when its earliest stone foundations formed part of the town’s defensive walls. The house you see today is largely the result of a major makeover in 1750, when its owners added upper floors and a handsome roof decorated with colourful, snake-like dragons. These rather fabulous creatures, painted beneath the eaves, gave the building its unusual name, although they spent years hidden from view before being rediscovered and restored in 1965.
But there’s more to this place than a few painted dragons. While the counts and governors were enjoying life up in Schloss Werdenberg, ordinary townsfolk down here had a rather different existence. Life revolved around farming, raising families, paying taxes and generally keeping the people in the castle happy. Children weren’t spared the hard work either, helping in the fields, vineyards and eventually the region’s embroidery industry. By the 19th century, home embroidery had become an important source of income, with families working long hours to make ends meet. Today, the Schlangenhaus is a museum dedicated to telling these ordinary people’s stories, using historical objects, sound recordings and clever displays to bring their world back to life. It’s a lovely contrast to the grand castle above: up there you discover how the powerful lived, while down here you find out who was doing all the actual work. And next time you’re admiring those beautifully painted dragons beneath the roof, remember they were only rediscovered in the 1960s — proof that even a house that’s been standing for centuries can still have a few surprises tucked away.
